Basilica dei Santi Gervasio e Protasio
Look up before you look in. The bell tower beside the apse of the Basilica dei Santi Gervasio e Protasio rises to 67 metres, and it has a story. The original tower stood on the right side of the church. Around 1750 the town decided to raise it, but the higher the builders went, the more it leaned, and in 1753 they gave up and pulled it down. The new site next to the apse turned out to have uncertain ground as well, so this time they built carefully, floor by floor, until 1768. The result made it the tallest bell tower in Liguria, hung with twelve bells.
The church itself goes back much further. A dedication tablet found here shows that a Roman temple stood on the spot. Written records say Pope Gelasius II consecrated the church on 11 October 1118 while travelling to France, although historians doubt the exact day, since the cathedral in Genoa was consecrated on 10 October and the journey makes the timing tight. By 1143 a chapter of canons was based here, and today the church is a collegiate and parish church of the Diocese of Chiavari with the rank of minor basilica.
What you see now is the result of centuries of rebuilding. A later Gothic Romanesque church suffered from raids, looting and destruction in what was then an exposed coastal town. After a visitation by Bishop Orazio Spinola in the early 17th century the changes became more substantial: in 1679 a new apse was built where the old entrance had been, and the Gothic Romanesque look disappeared. Today the church presents itself in a neoclassical style.
Entry is free, and it's worth stepping inside to see the choir, extended in 1721 with twisted Solomonic columns. A wooden crucifix donated by a local citizen in 1725 once hung here too; it was later moved to the church of San Quirico d'Assereto. From here it is 250 m, about 4 min, to the Oratorio dei Bianchi, and on the way you pass the Mercato Coperto and the Mercato del Giovedì.












