Riomaggiore Harbour
Begin at the water. The harbour, the waterfront and the boat landing together are the easiest place in Riomaggiore to be: no gate, no ticket, no closing time, open to you at any hour of any day. That is exactly why the walk starts here. Later the route meets two places that charge entry, so you set off from one that asks nothing of you.
Give yourself a few minutes at sea level before you commit to the hill. Everything that follows climbs away from this spot, and the next time you see the sea this close will be on the cliff path at the very end.
The pier also holds the first decision of the day, and it has nothing to do with the route. Boat tours and ferry tickets are sold here by their own operators, each separately, and none of them belongs to this walk. Seeing the village from the water is a separate purchase on a separate plan. For a first visit, the sensible call is to leave the boats for another time: the money worth thinking about today is the ticket for the castle and the coast path, which buys you something the free part of the walk cannot.
From here the first leg is the long one: 2250 m and about 44 minutes, climbing steadily out of the village. On the way you pass Riomaggiore Cemetery before the mule track takes you up to the sanctuary.








