Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
Start under the gold. The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is a Neo-Byzantine cross-domed basilica with an emphasised central dome, gold-plated and 45 metres high, while the bell tower reaches 53 metres. It covers 3,170 square metres and holds 5,000 worshippers, which puts it among the ten largest Eastern Orthodox church buildings and makes it one of Sofia's symbols. It is also the cathedral church of the Patriarch of Bulgaria.
The name surprises many visitors. Alexander Nevsky was a Russian prince, and the cathedral honours the Russian soldiers who died in the Russo-Turkish War that freed Bulgaria from Ottoman rule in 1878. Planning began on 19 February 1879 and the foundation stone was laid in 1882, yet most of the building went up between 1904 and 1912.
Architect Alexander Pomerantsev radically reworked an earlier project by Ivan Bogomolov and finished the design in 1898. Then half of Europe pitched in: the marble and the lamps came from Munich, the metal for the gates from Berlin, the gates themselves from Karl Bamberg's factory in Vienna, and the mosaics were shipped from Venice. Bulgarian painters such as Ivan Mrkvička worked alongside Russian artists like Vasily Bolotnov and Nikolay Bruni.
Entry is free, so step inside even if you only have ten minutes; the volume of the space is something you feel rather than read about. From the cathedral it is 560 metres, about 8 minutes, to a royal palace that became an art gallery.




















