Église Saint-Michel
Your walk starts at a church that belongs to the mountains rather than to France's big cathedrals: the Église Saint-Michel is built in Savoyard, or Alpine, Baroque style, with a bulb crowning its bell tower. Before you go in, look at the front. The four columns and the triangular pediment are a later addition, a Directoire-style portico put up in 1840, so the classical porch you see first is younger than the church behind it.
The story goes back much further. Before 1099, Count Aymon I of Geneva gave the Chamonix valley to the Abbey of Saint-Michel-de-la-Cluse in the Susa valley in Piedmont. Its monks settled on the right bank of the Arve and founded the Priory of Chamonix, and by 1119 they had built a church here, though an older one already stood before it. The archangel Michael, patron of that abbey, still watches over this church. In 1519 the prior Guillaume de La Ravoire tied Chamonix to the collegiate church of Saint-Jacques in Sallanches, and in 1522 fire destroyed the town, the church and the priory.
Rebuilding began in 1702 under Jean La Vougna from the Val Sesia, with Piedmontese masons such as Pierre Rouge and Antonio Janetta. The work went quickly between 1707 and 1709: the chapter of Sallanches paid for the choir, the parishioners for everything else. On 8 September 1714 the bishop of Annecy, Michel-Gabriel Rossillon de Bernex, consecrated the church and called it 'one of the most beautiful in our diocese'. Inside, look for the twelve consecration crosses on the walls, one for each anointing the bishop made that day.
The praise did not protect it for long. Fire struck again in 1758 and took the roof, the bell tower and the furnishings. Restoring the paintings began in 1760 and ran until 1790; in 1830 the walls and vaults were whitewashed and new altarpieces built, and seven years later the main altarpiece took shape around the statue of Saint Michael from the previous altar. The church has been a listed historic monument since 1979.
Entry is free, so a quarter of an hour inside costs you nothing but time. The next stop is just 120 m away, about 2 minutes on foot.










