Puerta de la Ciudadela
Begin under the arch. The Puerta de la Ciudadela is the front door of the old quarter, a gate in the town's defensive wall, and it keeps the hours of a street rather than a monument: open around the clock, free, nobody checking anything.
Walk through, then turn around and look back. The wall frames the line you have just crossed, from the everyday city into the historic quarter that UNESCO listed as a World Heritage Site in 1995. Together with the Calle de los Suspiros, where this walk ends, the gate counts as one of the most representative sights of the quarter, so the tour opens and closes on its two signature places.
Let the gate set the terms for the rest of the walk. This is a fortified town you walk through, not a museum you queue for, and only two places ahead will ask for a ticket. From here it is 910 m, about 13 minutes, to the main square.














