Piazza IV Novembre
Stand by the fountain and turn slowly round: this lopsided square is where Perugia has always done its public business. Five main streets of the medieval city meet here, the old Vie Regali, and long before them this was the Roman forum. The ground is not level, and that is part of the effect. The natural slope of the hill sets the cathedral, the town hall and the fountain at different heights, so the square works like a stage on which the city's most important buildings face each other.
Power gathered here step by step, in the political and the religious sense. In the 10th century the bishop's seat moved to the new church of San Lorenzo, and later the commune put its government buildings on the same square. What you see today is the result of a planned rebuilding of the Platea Comunis, or Platea Magna, carried out by the commune between the 13th and the 15th century to give the old acropolis a new face. In 1253 the square began to be paved in brick, while the work concentrated on enlarging the cathedral and raising the Palazzo dei Priori.
The square changed shape once more in 1591, when the papal legate Domenico Pinelli cut a new, wider street into it, today's Via Calderini. Its name came much later: after the battle of Castelfidardo, Umbria and the Marche joined the emerging Kingdom of Italy, and the annexation was sealed by the plebiscite of 4 November 1860. Serafino Siepi called it the most beautiful and oldest square in the city, and from the middle you can judge for yourself.
That middle is your next stop: the Fontana Maggiore stands right in the centre of the square, so you only have to walk up to its rim.






















