Plaza de Caycedo
Start in the square where Cali began to grow. Plaza de Caycedo covers 6,500 m², and in colonial times the wealthiest families built their houses around it, which quickly made it the commercial heart of the young town. Look at the frame of buildings: the Palacio Nacional, the Edificio Otero and the Catedral Metropolitana de San Pedro are national monuments, and so is the square itself. In the middle stands Joaquín de Cayzedo y Cuero, the independence hero and martyr from Cali whose name the plaza has carried since 1913.
The square has changed names and uses more than once. In the colonial era it was the Plaza Mayor, the place for spectacles, gatherings and even bullfights; from 1813 it was called Plaza de la Constitución. From 1674 it served above all as the public market, for more than two centuries. In 1898 it was turned into a park with a kiosk for the municipal band and closed off with an ornamental fence, which stayed until 1936, when the space became an open public square again. The last big remodelling came in 1986, for the 450th anniversary of the city's founding.
Two small stories make the place feel lived in. Public scribes and shoeshiners once worked here until they were moved to the Parque de los Poetas, one block away. And the first car ever to reach Cali, driven by Ernesto Seydardh on 13 June 1913, crashed right on this square during a rehearsal of its drive.
There is nothing to pay and no opening time to watch; the plaza is open around the clock. You will return to its edge at the very end, when you enter the cathedral. For now, head 270 m, 4 minutes, to the little Gothic-looking church by the river.




















