Marktplatz
You start in the middle of things. For centuries the Marktplatz has been Rothenburg's civic centre, its market and its meeting place, and every stop on this walk is a short distance from where you stand. The building that owns the square is the Rathaus, Gothic on one side and Renaissance on the other, with the tower you can go up at the very end. You finish there, so take a first look now and keep it in mind as the finish line.
Now look above the gables for the mechanical clock. Several times a day, evenings included, it replays the town's favourite legend. In 1631, during the Thirty Years' War, Mayor Nusch is said to have saved Rothenburg from destruction by drinking three and a quarter litres of wine in a single draught. Historians doubt it. The town stopped doubting long ago and turned the story into a festival and a clock, which is reason enough to stand here grinning while it plays.
Use the square as your crowd gauge for the day. Of roughly 2.5 million visitors a year, about 1.9 million come only for the day, and they move with the coaches: in around ten, out by half three. Be here before or after that and you see the old town in a much calmer mood.
From here the Rödergasse leads east, 390 m and about 5 minutes, to the tower that gave the lane its name.






















