Plaza 9 de Julio
Start where Salta itself started. Plaza 9 de Julio is the city's founding site and still its political, social and commercial centre, framed by the streets Mitre, España, Zuviría and Caseros. Look at the edges first: the arcade that runs around almost the entire square has survived nearly intact, which sets it apart from most main squares in Argentina. That is no accident. More than twenty resolutions, most of them passed in the 1990s, protect the square and the historic centre around it.
The shape follows a royal rulebook. In 1573 Philip II issued ordinances on how towns in the Americas should be laid out, and the main square had to be a rectangle one and a half times as long as it was wide. When the Spanish explorer Hernando de Lerma came down from Lima on 16 April 1582 to found Salta, he set aside a plot of exactly the size you see. The name came later and honours 9 July, Argentina's independence day.
Now picture it bare. Until the middle of the 19th century this was a dry, empty square where officials of the Cabildo kept their horses and carriages, where criminals were executed and royal decrees were read aloud. Only over time did it become the park around you, with more than 250 trees of native and exotic species and more than 7000 dwarf flowering plants. Kerosene lamps first lit its paths in 1871.
Take a slow lap and you can already see much of the walk ahead: the Cabildo, the cathedral and the MAAM all face this square, along with the Centro Cultural América and the Teatro Provincial. Your first move is the shortest of the day, 140 m and 2 minutes to the cathedral.


















