Dom St. Stephan
Begin where Passau has worshipped for almost thirteen centuries. Churches have stood on this spot since 730, and the one in front of you is a baroque rebuild after disaster: a fire in 1662 destroyed its predecessor, construction started in 1668 and the work was finished in 1693. Only the late Gothic eastern end survived the blaze, so it is worth walking around the building to see two eras joined in one church, roughly 100 metres long. It is the seat of the Catholic Bishop of Passau and the main church of his diocese.
The baroque look is the work of an Italian team. Carlo Lurago drew up the overall plan, Giovanni Battista Carlone handled the interior decoration and Carpoforo Tencalla painted the frescos. Going inside is free, and you should: this is the stop where a longer look pays off for almost everyone.
Then there is the organ. It was once the largest in the world, and although newer instruments such as Wanamaker's organ in the United States have overtaken it, it is still the largest church organ outside the U.S. Today it has 17,774 pipes and 233 registers, all playable from the five-manual general console in the gallery. In truth it is several organs of different tonal styles, added to over the years, with six consoles in total. Midday and evening organ concerts cost a ticket; if organ music moves you, plan your morning around one.
Listen for the bells as well. Eight large bells hang in the two towers. The biggest, the Pummerin, weighs 7,550 kg and was cast in 1952; it shares the south tower with the Sturmerin from 1733. Every quarter hour the Elfuhrglocken chime, and on the full hour the Predigtglocke and the Sturmerin strike the count in turn.
From the cathedral it is only 200 m, about 3 minutes, to Residenzplatz, and on the way you pass the Domschatz- und Diözesanmuseum.
















