Porta Nigra
Start at the Porta Nigra, the Roman city gate that locals simply call the Porta. Stand back first and take in the whole thing: two towers that bulge outwards in near semicircles, with the twin gate openings between them, once separated by a narrow courtyard. The Romans built it in grey sandstone some time after 170 AD. The name, Latin for black gate, only came in the Middle Ages, when the stone had darkened. What the Romans called it, nobody knows.
Look closely at the outer, northern face and you see a building that was never finished. The blocks there were never smoothed, and the protruding stones would have made it impossible to hang movable gates. Why work stopped is unknown, yet the gate served as the northern entrance to Roman Trier for centuries. It was one of four: the Porta Alba stood in the east, the Porta Media in the south and the Porta Inclyta in the west, next to the bridge over the Moselle, each at the end of one of the two main Roman streets. The Porta Nigra is the only one left.
The Middle Ages were hard on the Roman gates. Once they lost their purpose, people carried off their stones for new buildings and broke the iron and lead braces out of the walls to reuse the metal. On the north side of the Porta Nigra the scars are still plain to see. After 1028 a Greek monk named Simeon moved into the ruin and lived there as a hermit.
Going inside costs entry. It's worth it if you want to stand within a Roman structure rather than only look at it; if time or budget is tight, the outside tells most of the story. From here it's 530 m, about 7 minutes, to Trier Cathedral. On the way you pass the Weinstand am Hauptmarkt, a small wine stand that's easy to miss.




















